Please use a GFCI wall outlet if you have one, this is the type of outlet that will cut power if you drop a hair dryer into a bathtub.Make sure that you are using a wall outlet that has a fuse or circuit breaker, just in case something short circuits.Make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy.Do not leave anything unattended, you need to know if sparks happen or a fire starts, and either power down everything quickly or evacuate.I am not responsible for your safety, and I am not liable for any claims, damages, or other liability. Safety Notes This is probably the most dangerous electronics project I've done to date, involving high voltages and fire hazards. I usually learn something new with every one of my projects and I put the important stuff in a final thoughts page and appendix at the end. The pictures, text, images, and files may not match exactly due to having revisions and different versions, but I'll guarantee that the text and files are in their final versions. Most images (there are over 150 images in this Instructable) are annoted and sized in such a way that they do not suffer from image compression. Most images from the videos will also be uploaded into the gallery. The text content of this Instructable will also include additional notes and links. Please watch them in full screen and 720p resolution, because there will be some text that you might want to read. There are several videos in this Instructable. This package contains the CadSoft EAGLE 5.11 schematic and PCB files, the PCB gerber files, the source code for the microcontroller firmware (including the bootloader), and some mechanical drawings for the heat sink and plastic shielding. Included here (see bottom of this step) are all of the project files. I can safely handle the circuit without getting shocked. A computer is not required to operate it.Ī plastic cover is created to protect the circuit from things touching it accidentally. This is good since one cable powers everything. The relay is cooled with a custom made aluminum heat sink and a small cooling fan.Įverything on this circuit is powered from the wall outlet because I'm using a tiny USB charger as a built-in AC-to-DC converter. The relay is rated for 240V and 25A so it should work with any typical toaster oven in any part of the world. I plan on switching the relay at 1 Hz, so this is important. Mechanical relays can wear out because of their mechanical nature, and from internal sparks that occur during switching. The solid state relay is used because they can provide better control than mechanical relays, and they are more reliable. Soldering using my solder paste requires only up to maybe 250 degrees Celcius. The thermocouple is rated to over 500 degrees Celcius. Safety is the main design objective (but some things were limited by cost), and ease of use is the second objective. This circuit will plug into a wall outlet, and the oven will plug into this circuit, while the solid state relay basically acts as a switch between the wall outlet and the oven's heating element. The firmware features tweaking for all settings, manual temperature control, manual heating element control, and automatic temperature profile control (with a nice temperature history graph display). The controller features USB logging/debugging, USB bootloading, a graphic LCD display, and 3 buttons. This circuit uses an ATmega32U4 microcontroller to monitor the oven's temperature using a thermocouple and AD595AQ, and then control the oven's heating element using a solid state relay. To control the oven's temperature, I created my own reflow toaster oven controller circuit. When the oven heats the solder paste past the melting temperature, the solder paste melts and solders the component to the circuit board. To solve this problem, I decided to hack a toaster oven to become a reflow soldering oven.īasically, to perform reflow soldering, solder paste is placed on a printed circuit board, and the components to be soldered is placed on top of the solder paste. Some component packages are very difficult or impossible to solder with a traditional soldering iron. As I get more serious into my electronics hobby, I need to work with more SMD components.
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